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Strata

As everyone knows, there are a great many Hispanic speakers in Los Angeles. What I didn’t really understand till I moved here, however, is that they essentially comprise a fixed-stratum servant-class. It makes me uneasy to even say that. But there you have it: busboys, gardeners, construction workers, furniture movers, and valets here are by and large Mexican.

 One comes to expect it, eventually, and it brings its own quality of unease to daily living. There is always the specter of going to a social function, hearing someone speak Spanish, and assuming they are there to take your drink order, only to find out that they are a guest and you have just been branded an ignorant racist. But it’s hard to avoid sinking into such expectations. Every valet I meet is Hispanic. If I stay here much longer, I will eventually be trained to hand my car keys over to any Mexican who asks for them.

 Likewise, being home during the day and watching the gardeners and lawnboys come and go here in Weho, hearing male voices speaking Spanish outside my window has become quite normal. I didn’t realize how normal it was until yesterday, when I nearly lept off my couch in alarm at hearing a male voice speaking English outside my window.

 It took a moment to realize that the voice was discussing the possibility of moving a gate so the gas company employees who read the meters would be able to get to them with less difficulty. But it was so strange, to hear English in the province normally dominated by Spanish. Stranger still was my instinctive reaction. Already I am adjusted to the existence of this social stratum. I feel like a colonist. It’s very odd.

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Sounds of Christmas

I have finally figured out why I hate Christmas shopping. It came to me Thursday, in the massive Beverly Center mall. It wasn’t the crowds; there were no crowds. Early on a weekday, there were still only a comfortable number of shoppers. Enough to keep you company, not enough for jostling and bumping.

 

It wasn’t the parking: I walked over.

 

It wasn’t the prices; they were pretty reasonable and I’m not as broke as usual.

 

But something was setting my teeth on edge no matter what store I went into. Finally I figured it out. It was the music. Verily, I do loathe today’s music. It didn’t matter if it was a recent popular song or a Christmas song, everything I heard ran over my nerves like a pumice stone on a sunburn.

 

That I hate todays’ popular music was not a revelation. My sister and friends have patiently heard my diatribes on the arch yet nasal postulations of this year’s big-haired  pouty princesses, who never seem to vary from one of two themes:  Ooo baby you so fine and hot ooo baby baby yeah, and Don’t mess with me, you don’t know how tough I am that’s right, that’s right!

 

But there is something about today’s cover of Christmas songs that is a whole fresh, new form of torture. Female vocalists all seem to be striving for that intimate, jazzy, wry-in-sequins air of a Four Seasons lounge act, and male vocalists are convinced that they must sing Rum pah pum pum in some unique, arrhythmic tempo never before attempted.

 

As a result, Christmas shopping is like being on a cruise ship that has hit rough weather. After two hours of it, I was finished. Finally I went to the West Hollywood Target, which does not aspire to atmospheric pretensions. And for once, screaming children were music to my ears.

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Most Dangerous City

Not us! 

Happily for those of us living in Los Angeles, we are not, repeat, not, the most dangerous city in the United States. Nor even the second or third. My parents, who reside in a cozy cabin in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, were horrified when I decided to come to Los Angeles, land of inner city youth and gang violence. Well, look, ma !

Two of the top three most dangerous cities are in Michigan!

 
Of course, I have only been here for three and a half years, but so far my only brushes with crime have been a single slashed tire, and the sight of the ubiquitous grafitti that is as much part of the landscape of LA as the palm trees. Well, certain parts of it. Not Weho. Weho teenagers have different agendas. A sixteen year old with a Lexus and a coke habit is too busy to spraypaint.

 
It’s funny, the things people don’t talk about here. We don’t talk about the weather, because there isn’t any, and we don’t talk about crime, because unless you’re a gang member involved in an active turf war, there doesn’t seem to be a lot of that either.

 
I suppose there is always the lurking fear that a gang of maurading gays will break into one’s house and redecorate. But over all, this place is Shangri-La as far as I can tell.

 
Granted, I don’t watch the news. But when I walk around my beautiful new neighborhood, all I see are clean, shiny cars, and well-dressed, liposuctioned ladies walking their little dogs. Even the dogs are dressed better than I am, and I am beginning to suspect that the most frightening, undesirable element in Weho is me!

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Rent

Rent control has made Los Angeles a patchwork quilt of prices. I don’t know if it was enacted in a bid for stability, or a blow against landlords on behalf of “the little guy,” but like every government mandate, it’s a tangled vine from which blooms weird flowers.

 
The law is, apparently, that once you sign a lease, your rent can only be raised about 3-7% a year, depending on where you live. But of course, new leases can be set at market value, which seems to go up about 10-15% a year. Landlords owning large buildings jack up rent on empty apartments to compensate for the loss they are forced to swallow by rent control, driving the market value up further.

 The result, of course, is buildings in which one unit is being rented for $800 because the renter took it in 1989 and can’t afford to leave now. The unit next door, which is identical, is being advertised for $1450.

 The weird result is that in L.A., people who would never dream of asking you how much your salary is will not hesitate to ask you what you pay for rent. It’s a burning curiosity, a desire that overrides all other considerations, rather like the sexual urge that will compel you to sleep with someone but not ask them about their ex-girlfriend because that would be too personal.

 
And there is nothing so galling as finding out that the unit you are paying $1450 for was only $1125 for the previous renter and $650 for the guy downstairs, that barefoot git with the banjo. All you can do is hope for the day when they’ve all died off and you are still there, bragging to newcomers that you only pay $1850 and they’re paying $4,000.

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Holidays

When I was young, we used to exlaim in chagrin that the local stores began erecting their Christmas displays the day after Thanksgiving. We declaimed bitterly the increasing commercialization of Christmas. I think we’ve outgrown the shock. Indeed, now I fully expect to see Christmas lights the day after Halloween and feel a bit cheated if I don’t.

 Los Angeles being basically a shopping town, I have not been disappointed since I moved here three and a half years ago. Sunset Plaza is particularly prompt, and already sparkly blue reindeer are gracefully poised at the intersection by Chin-Chin’s and Café Med.

 Bristol Farms on Doheny has a dazzling display that makes me feel, when I walk in the door, that the world is a blur of red and gold, and smells like cinnamon. All the pumpkins have been moved outside with the firewood and I drift past the orange and into the red as if moving through a rainbow. Somewhere on Melrose I saw a slender, armless mannequin in a store window with a Santa had on. She looked like Venus de Claus.

 The years are neatly divided now into holidays and seasons by the merchant class. There is no dead time. As soon as the Christmas lights are put away, the valentines will appear, to be replaced by shamrocks, then easter eggs, then bikinis, then American flags, then the back-to-school atmosphere will fill that dangerous period from late July to early September with pencils and apples, till it’s time for the pumpkins to return. My year is served up with a fresh new glaze, again and again and again. The store windows of Los Angeles are my calender.

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Grocery Store Wars

I am convinced that Pavilions on Santa Monica Blvd and Bristol Farms on Beverly are in a competition to see who can cultivate the most aggressively friendly employees. They pounce on you the minute you walk in the store.

 “Good afternoon! Happy Holidays! Do you need any help? Anything at all? Need a hug?” (only a slight exaggeration.)

 
At Pavilions, if you use a credit card, they see your name and say “Good bye, Miss Morrissey!” in a ringing voice so that everyone within ten feet now knows your name too.

 When you leave they can’t bear to see you go, and volunteer to carry your one tiny bag of cat food and protein bars out to the car with you, waving goodbye till you pull into traffic. Pulling into traffic takes time, too, because the nicer people are compelled to be to your face, the more psychotic they are behind the wheel of a car, suggesting that there is no more dangerous place to be than the parking lot of Pavilions at closing time.

 
Even the security guards will kill you with kindness, although at Bristol Farms, the true nature of the beast is evident in the jagged metal spikes that await the tires of any car trying to exit through the entrance. Nevertheless, it’s both pleasant and unnerving to go to pick up a bottle of wine and have the cashier so delighted to see you again that you feel guilty for not offering him a drink.

 
It’s almost a relief to go occasionally to Ralph’s across the street from Bristol Farms. where the cashier rings you up with the silent resentment of someone who blames you for her broken fingernail. But sometimes you just want to go where no one knows your name.

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Dirty Word in Hollywood

There’s only one thing you can’t really say or do in Hollywood without facing dire repercussions. Most things you can do. You can curse vilely on live award shows, you can come out of the closet, you can call family members dreadful names, and hit paparazzi with your car (not that they don’t deserve it.)

 You can flash your naked, waxed bottom while shopping. You can drive drunk. You can hurl phones at underlings. You can leave the scene of a hit and run accident.

 You can use drugs. You can shoplift.  You can deride the war, the President, capitalism, corporations, and the free market. In fact, you rather have to do those last things if you expect to be invited to any good parties.

 

You cannot, however, be a Republican. Better to be a Communist. Better to be a terrorist! Better to be a rapist, frankly. 

Proof here.

I have a script that has been optioned, and my producer takes a peculiar delight in introducing me to his friends as a Republican. I suspect I’m the only one he’s ever seen up close, and I think he’s fighting the urge to look down the collar of my shirt to see if my back is covered with fur.

 Unsurprisingly, we have not yet found funding for my film, which is not in the least political, but rather a dark comedy involving corpses and blow-up dolls. Corpses and blow-up dolls usually play quite well in Hollywood.  But I must convince my producer to stop introducing as a Republican and merely tell them I’m shoplifting drug-addict who waxes her bottom.

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Car & Driver

Driving in LA can reshape your perceptions. When I lived in Hollywood, I would speak of coming over to Weho as if it were 20 miles away. In fact, it was four miles, but four miles on Sunset Blvd between 7:30am and midnight takes a half hour. If you reroute over to Fountain, which runs parallel, you’ll save six minutes, but there’s nothing to look at and you meet all the same stoplights. So I moved to Weho.

 
But Sunset Blvd in the wee hours of the morning is a shock to the senses. I recently drove from Bronson to Doheny in 11 minutes flat. To understand the significance of this, you have to imagine how a student pilot feels the first time his wheels leave the ground. I realized, suddenly, how small was the area to which my world had shrunk.

 
Last night, I saw another symptom of driver mentality. My friend, now six blocks away, came up to see my new apartment. She parked her car in my neighborhood — for which she needed a parking permit; this is how controlled it is – and we walked over to Dan Tana’s restaurant. Dan Tana’s is famous for its Italian food, mafia connections, and celebrity visits. George Clooney was there looking dapper with his young girlfriend and two other couples.

 
My friend sighed in contentment. “If I lived here, I’d go broke because I’d be over at Dan Tana’s every night.”

 
If she lived here? SHE DOES live here! She’s six blocks away! But there’s the car thing. If you drive here, you have to have a permit or pay the valet a ridiculous sum to park it. You then have to worry about driving home after a few drinks, and the cops patrol this area as if the Queen were visiting. Six blocks becomes a vast distance.

 
Well, you could walk it, I suppose, but not in the kind of shoes you want to be wearing when George Clooney strolls by.

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Slang in General

I might as well just come out and admit that I hate slang. All slang. I have no use for slang. Its very short shelf-life marks it as being of low quality. Anything that steadily depreciates from the minute you drive it off the lot is obviously a piece of mass-produced junk. Slang is that way. The minute it loses that new-car smell, it’s kitchy.

 
This does not stop people from using it, however. They keep using it. But now they smirk when they use it. I hate the smirk too.

 
I recently undertook a project that I am being rather secretive about so as not to jinx myself or alert any possible competitors. My friend Peter, who knows about it, asked me “Is it still on the DL?”

 
For the longest moment, I stared at him thinking “What fresh hell is this?” because I know that smirk. I like Peter, so I didn’t snarl “Oh, just speak English for God’s sake!” I processed it for a minute and finally remembered that when something is on the DL it means it’s on the down-low which was the cool way to say secret about six months ago.

 
You know, like “Most people party, just keep it on the down-low.” In LA, this means “Don’t snort coke in the living room. Do it in the bathroom where it can’t be seen from the front door.” All of this makes me shudder, from the lifestyle to the slang it creates.

 
In reaction, I retreat in despair, once again, to the finest book I’ve ever read, House of Mirth by Edith Wharton. I now know what I should have said to Peter:

 
“If you take pleasure in annoying me by mysterious insinuations,” I should have said coldly, “you might at least have chosen a more suitable time than just as I am recovering from the strain of a very large dinner.”

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Martini shots

Every job has its lingo. I spent yesterday on the set of the TV show “The Journeyman,” which airs Monday nights after “Heroes.” It’s a new show, and seems to be reminiscent of “Quantum Leap.” I was working as an extra in the background, because I like doing something fun on vacation from teaching. And I thought this would be fun.

 
Fun, however, is not necessarily how I would describe extra work, now that I’ve done it. However, I did at least learn what a martini shot is.

 
The scenes I participated in all take place at an office Christmas party in 1979. I was assigned a slinky black dress and some heavy gold jewelry, and the hairdresser transformed my short shag into a stiff, feathered do with flipped-up wings. The make-up artist went after my cheeks and lips with enough fire-engine red to set off the smoke detector. I was given a pair of shoes that immediately cut into my feet and caused a haze of pain to settle over me, clouding the entire day.

 
For the next six hours, I and 40 other extras were assigned to silently mingle and cross in front of the cameras as the actors moved among us and said their lines. We did this over and over and over and over and over. In painful shoes. For six hours. With no break and no refreshments.

 After lunch, we did it again… until 9pm. We filmed four different scenes, and by seven in the evening, we were too beat to even complain. Finally, the word came around that this was “the martini shot.” Apparently, the last scene of the day is called the martini shot, probably to cheer everyone up and remind them that once you’ve turned in your wardrobe and gotten your voucher, you can go home and have a drink. Which I did.

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